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Trouble Starting MZ202
#11
Please use the quick reply at the bottom of the screen so we don't get so many quotes. It gets confusing to follow.

Have you checked the fuel pump? It may be blocking the flow. Remove the fuel lines from each carb and open the tank valve to see if you are getting good flow through the system.

It may well be the timing since it sounds like you've had a lot of attempts at starts. Attempting to restart before the engine stops spinning is hard on both the starter and flywheel and can rotate the flywheel on the shaft by shearing the key. If fuel looks good then you may have to pop the flywheel and see if that is the issue.
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#12
So far fuel pump looks good. The carb bowl gets filled up when I turn on the fuel. I can check again the way you suggested. After popping up flywheel, is there a marking I need to check the alignment? Any picture will help me to verify the standard settings for timing.
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#13
According to your notes, you are priming only one carb. Install a T and add a line to the other carb. You are supplying fuel to only one cylinder, two cylinders don't like starting on one. When staring cold, prime 3 to 4 pumps, with throttle slightly open, if no start give it a couple more pumps.Your panel gauges indicate this is an older build, thinking possibly 2008 or earlier. What is your serial number? If the engine you have was ordered at or around the time of the build, it may have the thin stator plate. Which can be checked if you pull the fly wheel. If the engine has the aluminum carb manifolds your probably ok. When you get the engine running properly, use the tiny tach to indicate 6000 rpm. the Westach gauge then has to be calibrated, (two small screws) at rear of the gauges. You will likely need another person to complete this. Set the eng percent at 100, and the rotor percent at 100 percent.
Hope this helps.
leo…..
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#14
There is a key that hold the flywheel in the correct orientation. We've had occasions where re-engaging the starter when the motor is still spinning or firing can shear or distort the key throwing out the timing. If all looks ok with the carbs then maybe that is the issue.
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#15
I have tested and eliminated

1. Engine Compression
2. Fuel intake. I have chokes on both carb
3. Jets in carbs (cleaned all of the jets)
4. Sparks & coil
5. Fuel pump
6. Reed valves
7. Fuel lines

Thanks to Mike Messex for guiding all the above steps. I am going to check flywheel and the alignment to eliminate it. I will post the pictures after I open up to make sure its in order. Thanks for all of your suggestions
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#16
Hi all,
when you are applying primer, could you see fuel coming out of the air filters?
What you can try is, to put the heli higher on the side of the carbs to assure that the fuel is flowing into the engine. I use this technique with success. I always removes the right ground handle wheel first then I pump five times and after that I remove the left ground handle wheel. After the engine was started I apply some additional pump kicks to prevent it from stopping.
Mike
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